How to zero round bar?
Spindle mounted indicator is best.
If you’re touching off, you can touch x+ and zero your DRO, go to the other side of the part and make sure your Y is the exact same (you can zero it out too), and then touch off the x- side.
Then take the DRO reading, and divide it in half. That’ll be your centre.
Repeat for Y
This is the way
If you‘ve done it that way one time and got X=0 and Y=0 you can repeat it one more time.
Just make sure to go to X0/Y0 and then do X+ and X-, go back to X0/Y0 and do Y+ and Y-.
That will be more exactly if you repeat it and start from the centre you found out the first time.
-> Because your stock could be a little out of round. Mostly its only like 0,01-0,02mm, but sometimes you need it to be precise.
It only takes three points to strike an arc
And quite a bit of geometry and math. Finding center in X and center in Y is often close enough.
You’re gonna want to use a spindle mounted indicator to find the center
Using a co-ax indicator is the way I like to do it. You can also use a pin and move back and forth in one axis while making slight adjustments in the other until you just touch the material. Then move half of your pin and part diameter.
This would be my go to. Each of the methods mentioned are all great and each have their pros and cons. I’d choose this method because it’s very accurate from spindle to part, as it’s finding concentricity of two circles.
turn on spindle, touch until cutting in x-, zero position screen, up and over part, touch in x+, half, wind to zero, set offset, repeat for y. Everything else is overcomplicated.
Yeah, this is the answer
Indicator. You can also do it with an edge finder.
If you need to zero rough stock, don’t need to go fancy. Just touch off (spindle on with a tool loaded) the 4 “sides” (X+, X-, Y+, Y-). Watch for chips and listen carefully. You’ll know when you get contact. The difference between both axis plus-minus will be the center of the piece.
Since that’s a high-RPM router spindle (where you can’t spin a mechanical edge finder at 1,000 RPM), chuck up a smooth dowel pin or an upside-down endmill shank and use a strip of rolling paper or a continuity probe clip: touch the left (X-) and right (X+) sides of the bar, set X0 halfway between them, and then move to X0 before touching the front (Y-) and back (Y+) so you’re measuring across the true full diameter in Y. For round tubing where the wall thickness might vary slightly, you can do the exact same four-point touch inside the ID bore so your cuts stay concentric with the hole. Also, since your right-hand fixed vise jaw has a vertical V-groove, every piece of bar of the same diameter will drop into that exact same X/Y zero without having to re-zero between parts.
Eyeball it in close and sweep it with an indicator
Coaxial indicator is the best bet. Barring a machining center in the middle of the material, a standard edge finder will do you well.
You MUST pay attention when using either of the latter
Doing this often? Invest in a Co-ax indicator.
Dovresti montare un comparatore sul mandrino per centrarti precisamente
You can use a dovetail indicator and offset it to go around the part without the indicator moving. Or if you made the jaws and you’re dead center of it with the radius then edge find the edge of the jaw and offset half the length of the jaw
This is not conventional, but since you have it in a vice, measure your vice. Indicate off the front right corner of the vice. For y, after you indicate, you can move to the center of the vice. For x, after you indicate, move to the halfway point between the 2 jaws. That should be the center of your material
Feels like a lot of people don’t understand the size of this machine with its ER11 trim router.
Love the AnoleX I’ve got one.
Honestly mark the center with a pen and use a small endmill or V bit to line up with the mark.
A better way would be to turn it on slow and slowly step it over until you hear a sound and then zero move up over the part move half the endmill size in X and rezero repeat for Y.
Indicator? Would be the best way. If it doesnt have to be perfect move slow touch. Minus half the cutter then half the diameter.
Don’t align the positioning rod with the knife! Reset to zero in g55. You should subtract the same amount in 55 as EXT rises! Conversely, if EXT drops by the same amount, you should raise it by the same amount! This positioning rod is where you reset to zero!
spindle mount indicator. In every machine shop I worked for the X0/Y0 for every tooling fixture we put on a 3-axis machine was a .375 diameter hole. This is basically the same thing. What are you cutting from this? Because it looks like it’s not going to stay in the vise very long unless you’re taking the lightest of cuts or maybe carefully drilling a hole in it.
How well are the jaws of the vice made?
If they are truly mirror to another and the part where it holds the part is in center you just need to align the jaws and then you can use center of the jaws as center of the bar.
Depending on how much you take off the sides of the bar it could well be accurate enough.
Quanti consigli e sbattimenti quando basta avere un comparatore montato sul mandrino… senza bisogno di calcoli.
You remove it, then it stops being around.
I would start with edge finder. First it doesn’t matter where you start but only do either x or y not both at same time. For example start with x axis break edge do not move y axis zero out readout move over and break edge split difference then repeat process for opposite axis. This should get you within 0.001 assuming stock isn’t too bad outa round. Then if needed use indicator to fine tune pickup. This method is very fast and necessary on large boring mills that are really geared down low. Hope this helps.
There are many ways, YouTube is a great resource.
